Showing posts with label Southwark. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Southwark. Show all posts

5 February 2013

Shakespeare's Globe, Park Street, Southwark: London #58

Shakespeare's Globe. The original Globe theatre was built by the Lord Chamberlain's Men, Shakespeare's playing company, in 1599 and, presenting a large number of Shakespeares's plays, was very successful until Henry VIII was performed in 1613, when wadding from a stage cannon set the roof on fire and burned the building down in under two hours.

For the second Globe, built just within a year, a tiled roof was made. It was closed by the Puritans in 1642 and demolished in 1644.


'Sam Wanamaker
1919–1993
 
Visionary who recreated
Shakespeare's Globe
 
Voted by the People'

Wanamaker made his first visit to London in 1949, founded what was to be the Shakespeare Globe Trust in 1970 and spent many years working towards the creation of his project. Techniques and materials were as faithful to the period as possible, and the official opening was in 1997. It is about 750 feet from the original theatre.


8 December 2012

Harry Cole in Southwark: London #43

'Harry Cole
Voluntary Worker,
Policeman, Writer
Attended this school
1934–40
 
Voted by the People'
 
The Charles Dickens Primary School was mentioned in another post a few months ago, showing the plaque to Dickens on the wall through the wire fence. But there's a second plaque on the building dedicated to a much more obscure writer: Harry Cole, the policeman writer who used to work at Carter Street Police Station in Walworth Road. He worked there for thirty years, retiring in 1983.

Cole wrote a series of books based on his experiences: Policeman's Progress (1980), Policeman's Lot (1981), Policeman's Patch (1982), Policeman's Patrol (1983), Policeman's Prelude (1984), etc.

19 September 2012

Cross Bones Graveyard, Southwark: London #32

In Redcross Way, Southwark, there are locked gates festooned with ribbons, soft toys, poems, and comments.
 
'Cross Bones
Graveyard
 
In medieval times this was an unconsecrated
graveyard for prostitutes or "Winchester Geese"
By the 18th century it had become a paupers'
burial ground, which closed in 1853.
Here, people have created
a memorial shrine.
 
The Outcast Dead
R. I. P'.
 
This area of London was once known for its brothels, theatres, and other activities not allowed within the City of London, and about 15,000 burials of outsiders (prostitutes, the poor, etc) took place here.  The land was saved from being turned into a building site in 1883, and in the 1990s, when TfL (Transport for London), the owner of the land, was extending the Jubilee Line, the Museum of London Archaeology Service found many human remains. The Friends of Cross Bones are now campaigning for a memorial garden on the land from the gates to the south of the enclosed area.
 
A shrine created within the graveyard. Below, the images speak for themselves. The ribbons often bear names of the dead.
 
 
 
 
 
 
And below is a link to a short video posted on YouTube in which the writer John Constable, who has done so much to champion the official recognition of this outsiders' cemetery, holds forth. 
 
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
The People of the Crossbones Graveyard

29 August 2012

Charles Dickens in London: London #13

St George the Martyr at the junction of Long Lane, Marshalsea Road, and Tabard Street in Southwark is also called 'Little Dorrit's Church' as it was here that Dickens's creation was christened and where she married Arthur Clennam. The church bears a Little Dorrit window but unfortunately it was closed when I was in the area.

St George's Gardens are nearby and there's an interesting plaque there.

'Marshalsea Prison

Beyond this old wall is the site of the old Marshalsea Prison, closed in 1842. This sign is attached to a remnant of the prison wall. Charles Dickens, whose father had been imprisoned for debt in 1824, used that experience as the Marshalsea setting for his novel Little Dorrit.'

Angel Place is through the gates.

'ANGEL PLACE
 
This alleyway lies on the site of the Marshalsea prison where the author
Charles Dickens' father was incarcerated, and which featured strongly in his great book 'Little Dorrit'. The old prison wall still stands.
 
Thanks to an active local steering group, we now have new lighting, paving, and a new gateway to St George's Gardens.'
 
'The wall mounted artworks adapt the original illustrations of Little
Dorrit. The themes of wealth and poverty, freedom and imprisonment,
which run throughout the book, are visually explored. Children from the local St Joseph's and Cathedral Schools collaborated on the project and appear in the scenes along with their drawings.
 
This project was completed and opened on 25th September 2004, and was funded by Southwark Couuncil to make the area safer and easier to use.'

Five of the paving stones in the alley are inscribed.

'JOHN DICKENS, THE FATHER OF CHARLES DICKENS, WAS IMPRISONED HERE FOR DEBT FROM FEBRUARY TO MAY, 1824'
 
'THE HEROINE
OF DICKENS' NOVEL,
LITTLE DORRIT,
WAS ONE RESIDENT
WHO WAS
NOT A PRISONER'
 
'BUT, WHOSOEVER GOES TO MARSHALSEA PLACE ... WILL FIND HIS FEET ON THE VERY PAVING-STONES OF THE EXTINCT MARSHALSEA JAIL ... AND WILL STAND AMONG THE CROWDING GHOSTS OF MANY MISERABLE YEARS'
 
This is a quotation from Dickens's Preface to the 1957 edition of Little Dorrit, which describes his visit to the site of the prison in the same year as the publication. The full sentence reads:

'A little further on, I found the older and smaller wall, which used to enclose the pent-up inner prison where nobody was put, except for ceremony. But, whosoever goes into Marshalsea Place, turning out of Angel Court, leading to Bermondsey, will find his feet on the very paving-stones of the extinct Marshalsea jail; will see its narrow yard to the right and to the left, very little altered if at all, except that the walls were lowered when the place got free; will look upon rooms in which the debtors lived; and will stand among the crowding ghosts of many miserable years.'

'MELANCHOLY STREETS, IN A PENITENTIAL GARB OF SOOT, STEEPED THE SOULS OF THE PEOPLE WHO WERE CONDEMNED TO LOOK AT THEM OUT OF THE WINDOWS, IN DIRE DESPONDENCY'
 
This is from Chapter 3, which is a description of a Sunday evening in 'gloomy, close, and stale' London. Here is a slightly extended quotation:
 
'Maddening church bells of all degrees of dissonance, sharp and flat, cracked and clear, fast and slow, made the brick-and-mortar echoes hideous. Melancholy streets, in a penitential garb of soot, steeped the souls of the people who were condemned to look at them out of windows, in dire despondency. In every thoroughfare, up almost every alley, and down almost every turning, some doleful bell was throbbing, jerking, tolling, as if the Plague were in the city and the dead-carts were going round. Everything was bolted and barred that could by possibility furnish relief to an overworked people.'
 
'THERE WAS NOT ONE
STRAIGHT FLOOR FROM
THE FOUNDATION OF THE ROOF
THE CEILINGS WERE SO
FANTASTICALLY CLOUDED BY
SMOKE AND DUST THAT
OLD WOMEN MIGHT HAVE
TOLD FORTUNES IN THEM
BETTER THAN IN GROUTS OF TEA'
 
This is from Chapter 5, when Arthur Clenn looks through his dead father's house, and a longer reading of the paragraph gives a more graphic image:
 
'Dull and dark he found it. The gaunt rooms, deserted for years upon years, seemed to have settled down into a gloomy lethargy from which nothing could rouse them again. The furniture, at once spare and lumbering, hid in the rooms rather than furnished them, and there was no colour in all the house; such colour as had ever been there, had long ago started away on lost sunbeams—got itself absorbed, perhaps, into flowers, butterflies, plumage of birds, precious stones, what not. There was not one straight floor from the foundation to the roof; the ceilings were so fantastically clouded by smoke and dust, that old women might have told fortunes in them better than in grouts of tea; the dead-cold hearths showed no traces of having ever been warmed but in heaps of soot that had tumbled down the chimneys, and eddied about in little dusky whirlwinds when the doors were opened.'
 
Another view of the old prison wall, this time from Angel Place.
 
The presence of Dickens is all over this part of Southwark, as in Charles Dickens Primary School.
 
And the blue plaque is just about legible through the closed gates.
 
In George Inn Yard off Borough High Street:
 
'THE NATIONAL TRUST
THE GEORGE INN
It is known that the George Inn existed in
the late 16th Century although the present
building dates from 1677. Both Shakespeare
and Dickens knew the hospitality of the inn
which has continued right up to the present day.
The inn is now owned by The National Trust.'
 
The wall opposite offers more information:
 
'Records of this coaching inn date back to 1542
although the current building dates back to
1676 when it was rebuilt following a devastating fire.
During 1874 the north range was pulled down,
however, thankfully the southern range has survived
to be London's last galleried coaching inn.
William Shakespeare often frequented the inn,
as did the novelist Charles Dickens who referred to
The George in his novel Little Dorrit.'
 
Shakespeare, of course, died in 1616, and so must have used the pub which formerly stood here.


Several places in the area, such as Copperfield Street and Weller Street, bear witness to the perceived importance of Dickens in Southwark.
 
Moving away from Southwark, to Bloomsbury:
 
'1851–1860
CHARLES DICKENS
NOVELIST
Lived in Tavistock
House near this
site'

To me, stating that Charles Dickens was a novelist seems a little like saying that William Shakespeare wrote plays, but no matter. Dickens bought this from his friend the artist Frank Stone for £1500, which probably sounded like a bargain even way back then, but it needed a large amount of work doing, and the family couldn't move in until about four months later. He bought Gad's Hill near Rochester in 1956.

Dickens separated from his wife Catherine in 1858: he had become obsessed with the 18-year-old Ellen (or Nelly) Ternan, who was living here with her mother and sisters – at Park Cottage, Northampton Park, Canonbury – at the time when he met her.

This building in Portsmouth Street (and Dickens was of course born in that town), is almost certainly the oldest shop in London, and may have been an inspiration to Dicken's novel The Old Curiosity Shop (1841).

–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Charles Dickens in Portsmouth, Hampshire
Charles Dickens and Characters in Marylebone Road, London
Charles Dickens in Kingston upon Hull
Charles Dickens Connections in Kensal Green Cemetery, London
Charles Dickens, Edward Wortley Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley Montagu
Charles Dickens and Cleveland Street, Fitzrovia: Literary London #8
Claire Tomalin: Charles Dickens: A Life (2011)

26 August 2012

John Keats in Southwark: London #8

In 2007 Andrew Motion, who was Poet Laureate at the time and also a biographer of John Keats (1795–1821), unveiled a bronze statue of Keats in a quadrangle outside Guy's Hospital.


The statue is life-size and sits in a niche of the original London Bridge replaced in 1831 and bought by the hospital for ten guineas (or £10.50 in decimal currency). Between 1815 and 1816 Keats had trained at Guy's Hospital as a surgeon-apothecary.

Stuart Williamson was the artist commissioned to commemorate the life of Dr R. K. Knight (1923–2005), who was a physician at Guy's.
 
The oak band around the inside of the alcove gives Keats's dates of birth and death, states he was apothecary here in 1816, and quotes 'Sure a poet is a sage: a humanist, physician to all men' from Keats's The Fall of Hyperion: A Dream (1856–7).
 
This plaque is on a house on St Thomas's Street a few yards away from the statue in Guy's Hospital:
 
'ON THIS SITE
POET & APOTHECARY
JOHN KEATS
& his friend, the
POET, APOTHECARY, SURGEON
& CHEMIST
HENRY STEPHENS
shared lodgings while studying
at
GUY'S & ST. THOMAS'
HOSPITALS
(1815–1816)'

14 August 2012

Olympic Girl Plunges into the Pan

I just spotted this street painting on a wall in Sumner Street, Southwark, and after all the Olympic Games hype of the past months I found it really challenging. It's signed 'Loretto' and bears the words 'OLYMPIC GAMES 2012' and 'WELCOME TO LONDON 2012', although these words are belied by the image of a female swimmer plunging straight down the toilet.

So what's the real message? It seems to be calling the Olympic Games 2012 a worthless, meaningless, and (I imagine we're supposed to understand) extremely expensive government vanity project. I'll go with that.